Skip Rajasthan for Punjab: a luxurious stay at Ran Baas, The Palace in the former royal city of Patiala

With its grand palaces and majestic forts, Rajasthan is the go-to destination for international travellers. Unfortunately, its popularity has resulted in overtourism, making the experience far less authentic for travellers looking to experience a taste of India’s royal past.
For this reason, those in the know are turning to new destinations including the lesser-frequented state of Punjab, which has been on a mission to revitalise its historical forts and palaces to boost heritage tourism. At the heart of this vision is Ran Baas, The Palace, which opened its doors in 2025 in the former royal city of Patiala.

Patiala is famed for many things including its generous peg, an oversized serving of liquor that symbolises Punjabi hospitality, and for one of its maharajas (great ruler): Bhupinder Singh, who was known for his extravagant lifestyle, and for whom French luxury maison Cartier created the iconic Patiala necklace featuring 2,930 diamonds in 1928.

It was his ancestor, Baba Ala Singh, who built the 18th century Qila Mubarak complex in the heart of the city, featuring a main palace and private guest house for female royals. The latter has undergone a major conservation project and restoration to become Ran Baas – which literally means queen’s abode – a luxury heritage hotel that has already attracted high-profile fashion designers and Bollywood actors.
At its heart is a stunning central courtyard featuring a mix of Mughal, Sikh and Rajput architecture. It features two restaurants, Neel and Ath, and The Patiala, a sexy pink bar that serves up the famous Patiala peg and other cocktails. A series of hallways connect guests to facilities like the gym, an outdoor garden featuring a table tennis and basketball area, and a spa and gorgeous pool in the Lassi Khana, the former royal pantry that once fed 35,000 people.

So many of the hotel’s design details are Instagrammable, from the main staircase, hand-painted De Gournay wallpaper and statement chandeliers, to the larger-than-life pink lotus design that dominates the pool area. When you look beyond the avant-garde design and modern touches, though, you’ll find original architectural details that have been preserved and restored to pay homage to the palace’s rich past.

This vision continues throughout the hotel’s 35 unique and generously sized rooms, which are spread across three floors and themed around jewels including sapphire, topaz, coral and pearl. I stayed in an elegant Pearl Suite, which features embroidered white silk textiles, mirrored furniture and statement marble in the bathroom and bedroom, including a stunning bespoke hand-carved marble bed.

The walls are adorned with one of the maharaja’s original hand-painted murals, which have been painstakingly restored by master artisans. It also boasts a picturesque balcony from which I could watch locals going about their daily business at the bustling local bazaar surrounding the complex.
While the hotel offers guests a range of itineraries and experiences beyond its walls – skip the local bazaar and head to the National Institute of Sports museum instead to peruse fun Indian sporting memorabilia – I found it hard to leave with so much to do on site.

Indian hospitality is already in a league of its own, but the team at Ran Baas was extremely detail-oriented and ready to cater to every whim. My two dedicated butlers ensured that I enjoyed complimentary daily activities, including the “royal” head massage and the signature high tea, which takes place on the sunset terrace perched high above the fort. I spent most afternoons sipping on hot masala chai and indulging in Indian snacks while watching the sky transition into a fiery red (they even had an easel and watercolours on hand if I wanted to capture the moment on canvas).

One afternoon, they escorted me to a private museum next door, which houses a jaw-dropping collection of silver chariots, ornate chandeliers, prized weapons and other historical treasures. They also arranged meals at hidden spots throughout the palace that speak to India’s heritage and crafts. I marvelled at the 600-year-old frescoes of the Rang Mahal hall, and at the Aleppo mirror panels of Sheesh Mahal hall that were typical of grand Rajput-era palaces. It provided the perfect backdrop to my Punjabi-themed dinner featuring a local thali made using seasonal produce.

Speaking of which, the food at Ran Baas is excellent. While there are only two restaurants, a fine dining restaurant and a cafe, the culinary team went out of their way to showcase a variety of cuisines beyond the standard Indian – including handmade dim sum – all of which are delicious. On the last day, the chef surprised me with one of my favourite childhood snacks, Choori, made from a decadent combination of roti, ghee and jaggery.
With its modern design, rich history and top-notch hospitality, Ran Baas has the makings to become not just one of India’s finest hotels, but a destination in its own right.
The author stayed as a guest of Ran Baas, The Palace