How to make the best buttermilk pancakes

UNITED STATES – A golden stack of pancakes, slicked with butter, dripping with syrup, is one of the most rewarding breakfasts you can cook on a weekend – a perfect way to start the day.

But not all pancakes reach those burnished heights. Some are flat; some are pale and spongy; some burn on the outside and stay raw in the middle. The secret to consistently perfect pancakes lies in a few simple but crucial moves. Sometimes, the biggest mistakes are not the things you did, but the things you did not do.

Here are a few.

You’re not resting your batter

You know the old chestnut that the first pancake you fry is for the dog? That is because if you have not let the batter rest, those first few pancakes will turn out too thin, with the batter running all over the pan. Letting the batter rest fixes this, giving the flour time to hydrate and the batter a chance to thicken. It also lets the leaveners (baking soda and baking powder) fully dissolve and disperse, so you get an even rise.

The sweet spot is 10 to 30 minutes on the counter, but the batter will keep in the fridge for up to 48 hours. A longer rest actually deepens the flavour: The buttermilk has more time to work on the flour, yielding something slightly more complex. Pancakes made from an overnight batter will not rise as much.

If you are keeping the batter overnight, you can wait to add the leavener until just before frying, which helps with the rise.

Lumps are not only okay; they are expected. The goal when mixing is to combine the wet and dry ingredients until there are no streaks of dry flour. A lumpy batter is a properly mixed batter. Those lumps will hydrate and smooth out as the batter rests. Overmixed batter, on the other hand, develops too much gluten, and the result is a flat, dense, rubbery pancake that no amount of syrup can save.

You’re not using an acid

A great pancake batter is a chemistry equation: Acid plus a base (baking soda) equals lift. When baking soda comes into contact with an acidic ingredient, it produces carbon dioxide bubbles. Those bubbles are what make your pancakes light and fluffy. Without acid in the batter, the baking soda is inert, and you are left wondering why your pancakes came out dense.

The best source of that acid is a liquid like buttermilk, which adds a gentle tang and the right texture to make a nicely pourable batter. Plain yogurt, sour cream or kefir also contain the right acidity; just thin them with regular milk or water so the batter stays pourable.

Or, use this classic trick: Stir a tablespoon of lemon juice or white vinegar into a cup of whole milk, let it sit for five minutes, and you have a reasonable stand-in.

If you have any buttermilk left over, freeze it. It will lose a little potency over time, but it still works fine for your next batch.

And yes, you can make pancakes with water instead of milk. But, don’t. The fat and protein in milk (along with the butter and the eggs) are part of what makes a pancake a pancake. If you are cooking for someone who cannot have dairy or eggs, use a dedicated vegan pancake recipe rather than trying to substitute your way through a conventional one.

Your ingredients are old

Most pancake recipes call for baking soda and baking powder: Each does something specific.

Baking soda is more powerful, reacting with the buttermilk to produce a fast, vigorous rise and give pancakes their deep golden brown colour. Baking powder has the acid already built in, activating on its own when the liquid hits it and again when exposed to heat (this is what “double acting” means).

Together, baking soda and powder give you pancakes that are well risen, nicely bronzed and tender.

Baking powder and soda do go stale, so check the expiration date. If you are unsure, test them to see if they are still active. For baking soda, drop a pinch into a small amount of vinegar or lemon juice; it should bubble vigorously. For baking powder, stir a teaspoon into hot water, which should cause it to fizz.

Your pan is too hot or too cold

Pan temperature is another important variable. Cook on heat that is too low, and your pancakes will be pale and doughy; too high, and the outside will scorch before the inside has a chance to set.

Start by heating your pan over medium-high heat for two to three minutes – longer if you are using cast iron, which takes time to come up to an even temperature. Hold off on adding fat until the pan is hot enough. Test it by flicking in a few drops of water. If they sizzle and evaporate on contact, you are in the right range. If the drops skitter and dance around the surface, the pan is too hot. Pull it off the heat for 30 seconds before proceeding.

Once the temperature feels right, add your fat. A mix of butter and a neutral oil works best. Butter contributes flavour and browning, while oil raises the smoke point so that the butter will not burn. For the crispiest edges, do not be stingy. You want enough fat to swirl if you tilt the pan, not just a thin sheen. Then, reduce the heat to medium and give the fat a moment to get hot before you pour in the batter.

Your first pancake is a test run. It will tell you whether your heat is right, whether your batter is the right consistency and whether you need more fat. If it comes out great, you are a pancake master. If it does not, adjust the heat. Add more fat between batches. If the butter starts to blacken and smell burnt, wipe the pan with a paper towel before continuing.

Pan choice also has an impact. Cast iron, carbon steel and stainless steel all produce pancakes with crispy edges and caramelised bottoms. Nonstick is more forgiving and makes flipping easier, but the colour will be paler and the edges less crunchy.

You’re making them too big

The instinct is to fry big, diner-style pancakes. But, smaller pancakes are almost always better pancakes. With more surface area relative to its interior, it has crispier edges and is easier to flip. Use a large ice cream scoop (about 80ml) to portion your batter. Space the pancakes a couple of inches apart, since they’ll spread a bit.

Once the batter is in the pan, do not touch it. The pancakes are ready to flip when bubbles speckle the entire surface, not just the edges. Flip too early and the batter will splash and run; flip too late and you will get a tough, overcooked pancake. Use a wide, thin spatula and commit to a single clean, confident motion. The second side takes roughly half as long as the first. Cook it until the bottom is golden and the pancake springs back lightly when pressed in the centre.

If you want to incorporate mix-ins, add them to each pancake after you have poured the batter and given it a moment to just begin to set at the edges. Stirring them into the batter in the bowl can deflate it before you even start cooking. This way, you can vary each batch without committing to one flavour.

Best Buttermilk Pancakes

Ingredients

Serves four to six

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.